004 / 75 · Cupboard Suppers

Browned Cabbage and Bow-Tie Pan

2 generous bowls of cabbage and bow-tie pasta · Active 20 min · Total 40 min

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Browning makes cabbage the main flavor of this simple pasta pan. The edges turn golden while the centers remain soft, and a small amount of butter coats the bow ties with the help of pasta water. There is no cream sauce or cheese to buy for it. The cabbage needs a wide pan and two batches; putting every shred into a small pan at once produces a perfectly edible but quite different steamed-cabbage dish.

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Bow-tie pasta tossed with golden browned cabbage and onion.

Cut through the tough center

Remove damaged outer leaves and the hard core, then cut the cabbage into ribbons about half an inch wide. Extremely fine shreds soften before they can brown. Let each batch sit against the hot pan for a minute or two before turning. Keep the browned bits golden, not black, and lower the heat if the butter begins to smell scorched.

The cooking water is part of the sauce

Reserve the measured water just before draining the pasta, when it contains some starch. Add it to the cabbage a little at a time and toss vigorously with the remaining butter. This makes a light coating that reaches the folds of the bow ties. Serve as soon as the pasta is glossy; it becomes firmer as the water is absorbed.

Ingredients

  • 6 oz dry bow-tie pasta (170 g)
  • 2 teaspoons neutral oil (10 ml), divided
  • 4 cups cabbage cut into 1/2-inch/1.3 cm ribbons (450 g prepared)
  • 1 medium onion, thinly sliced (100 g)
  • 2 tablespoons butter (28 g), divided
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine salt (3 g)
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper (1 g)
  • 1/2 cup reserved pasta cooking water (120 ml)

Set out

Large saucepan, 12-inch/30 cm heavy skillet, Colander, Tongs or wide spoon

Allergens

Wheat, Milk. Check labels and substitutions.

Make it

  1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and cook bow ties according to the package until tender. Reserve 1/2 cup/120 ml cooking water before draining.
  2. Meanwhile, heat 1 teaspoon oil and 1 teaspoon of the butter in the skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the cabbage and half the onion in a loose layer. Cook for 6–8 minutes, turning occasionally, until browned and tender. Transfer to a bowl.
  3. Repeat with remaining oil, another 1 teaspoon butter, remaining cabbage and onion. Return the first batch to the pan and add salt and pepper.
  4. Add drained pasta, remaining butter and half the reserved water. Toss over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, adding the remaining measured water gradually until the pasta is lightly coated. Divide into two bowls.

Use the other half of the cabbage

A partial cabbage keeps better as a solid piece than as a bowl of exposed shreds. Wrap and refrigerate it for another cabbage recipe, slaw or soup. Cut only the amount needed for this pan, and check the remaining leaves before their next use.

A useful detail

Use green or white cabbage with firm leaves. A tightly packed five-cup measure may weigh far more than the stated amount, so the prepared weight is the clearest guide.

Another way

  • Use 170 g egg noodles instead of bow ties and follow their package cooking time.
  • Add 1 teaspoon caraway seeds with the cabbage only if they are already a useful spice in your cupboard.

Keep it well

Refrigerate shallow portions within 2 hours, or 1 hour above 90°F/32°C, at 40°F/4°C or below for up to 3 days. Reheat with a little water to 165°F/74°C throughout. The cabbage remains flavorful but will lose some crisp edges after chilling.